| 十八世纪法国女性服装变更多样,奇光异彩,活力无穷,时髦蔚然成风。本论文将论述并剖析该时代的政治经济情势、认识形状、审雅观和文明融会的情形及其与服装演化的关系,凸起发蒙活动对女性服装变更的直接和直接推进感化。该时代的女性服装,一方面承继了十七世纪以来、特别是路易十四时代的华贵优雅并将其发扬光年夜,另外一方面在平易近间慢慢接收了人文主义和自在主义的营养,绝对过往出现出了更多的特性、多变和活力。特别是平易近间女性服装的成长,更是可以作为人文主义和性别对等开端的标记。另外,经济和时髦的关系也不克不及疏忽。一方面经济的成长、工业的提高进步了服装的临盆才能,另外一方面,因为服装业的成长,十八世纪也涌现了各类新兴的纺织业,及与之相干的家当,进一步推进经济和社会的向前成长。 Abstract: In eighteenth Century the French women's clothing to change the diversity, dynamism, fashion has extraordinary splendor. This paper will discuss and analyze the era of the political and economic situation, shape recognition, trial elegant and civilized fusion and clothing and evolution relationship, raised Enlightenment on changes in women's clothing immediate and direct role in promoting. Since the time of the women's clothes on the inheritance of the 17th century, especially Louis XIV of luxurious and elegant and the carry forward of the night light, on the other hand in the plain between near slowly received nutrition of humanism and liberalism, absolutely the past appear out of the more special, changeable and vitality. In particular, the growth of women's clothing, but also as a sign of the beginning of humanism and gender equality. In addition, the relationship between economy and fashion can not be neglected. On the one hand, economic growth and industrial progress in the clothing give birth to, on the other hand, because of the growth of the garment industry, the eighteenth century has also appeared in the of the emerging textile industry, and with coherent belongings, to further promote economic and social progress. 目录: 中文摘要 4 Résumé 5-6 Remerciements 6-9 Introduction 9-11 Ⅰ. La Signification du costume et l’industrie textile du XVIII~e siècle 11-21 A. Laction de l’esprit sur la mode 11-12 B. Le contexte européen de l’industrie textile du XVIII~e siècle 12-16 C. Les principales évolutions du costume féminin sous l’influence de l'esprit des Lumières 16-18 D. La tendance du costume masculin par rapport àcelle du costume féminin 18-21 Ⅱ. Le Costume féminin de l’élégance chez les nobles 21-29 A. Les situations générales des femmes pendant la première moitiédu XVIII~e siècle 23-24 B. Les robes volantes 24-26 C. Les robes àpaniers 26-29 Ⅲ. Le Printemps des Lumières et l’embourgeoisement du costume 29-42 A. La robe àla fran?aise, symbole d’expression libre chez les bourgeois 30-32 B. Les modes àl’anglaise 32-36 1. Les modes àl’anglaise inspirées par l’anglomanie 32-35 2. Les modes àl’américaine influencées par la victoire de l’esprit des Lumières en Amérique 35-36 C. La simplicitéde la robe àla veille de la Révolution 36-39 D. Lexotisme au niveau mental qui influence les conceptions du costume 39-42 CONCLUSION 42-44 NOTES 44-46 Bibliographie 46-49 |
