It was a blue-sky day in Germany’s Black Forest. A dusting of snow covered distant peaks， but we drove with the top down along winding roads beneath a dense 1）canopy of trees. Little lakes， vineyards and thatchroofed farmhouses sat in 2）clearings. The sun was just setting， and amber light filtered through the 3）foliage.
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Then， as suddenly as if someone had flipped a switch， the forest turned pitch-black， silent and 4）eerie. I was about to suggest putting the top up when we spotted the lights of a village ahead. According to our map， it was Wolfach―or maybe Schiltach， or perhaps we’d even come as far as Gengenbach. Hard to tell， since the guidebook was 100 years old.
Early in the summer of 1914， my great-great aunt Rose and great-great uncle Henryk， who lived in London， picked up the latest guidebook to motoring in Germany. They packed the family into a brand-new Rolls Royce Silver Ghost and set off for a three-week trip through the Black Forest―a mountainous， thickly forested area that covers about 2，300 square miles in southwestern Germany. Their adventure was cut short by the outbreak of World War I.
I recently inherited the 5）ornate cuckoo clock they bought as a souvenir and their copy of The Motor Routes of Germany. The clothbound book， full of watercolor illustrations and road maps， is 6）copiously 7）annotated in a small， elegant script―almost certainly my great-great aunt’s.
“Listen to this，” said my husband， David， examining her notes with me： “ ‘The roads are generally good and well marked with signposts…but we must keep a sharp lookout for the slow brewers drays and ox-wagons loaded with pine logs.’ ”
“We should go there，” he said.
And so we did. We wanted to see if there was anything left of the Black Forest so enthusiastically described in the old guidebook， 100 years and two world wars later. Aunt Rose’s first entry reads： “An 8）undulating road passing through some villages typical of the happy 9）Grand-Duchy of Baden brings us to the enchanting city of Freiburg im Breisgau.” In a week， we would drive about 100 miles from the same spot， Freiburg， north to the spa town of BadenBaden， trying to recreate as much of Henryk and Rose’s trip as we could.
Freiburg is dominated by its cathedral， a dark-red sandstone 10）edifice that dwarfs the steep-gabled houses in the town’s central square. Inside， the building smelled of 11）frankincense and 12）tallow. “Climbed to the top of Freiburg Cathedral’s stonework spire. 13th century. Magnificent views，” Aunt Rose wrote. Following in her footsteps―and wondering if she’d been wearing a 13）corset or a hobble skirt at the time―we ascended the nearly 300 wedge-shaped stone steps to the steeple’s top， pausing to peer through 14）filigree stonework on the rooftops of the city below. The old guidebook proclaimed Café Schmidt， which opened in 1520， one of the top spots for Black Forest cake―the local specialty of chocolate cake layered with whipped cream and cherries， often laced with 15）kirsch. Amazingly， Café Schmidt was still open. It looked as though it hadn’t been remodeled since the 1950s， but the cake was boozy and delicious.
It was market day， and stalls piled high with local produce， home-cured meats and artisanal cheeses packed the square. We sat at an outdoor cafe， ordered a locally brewed pilsner （“The beer is straw-colored， bubbly and it looks like pale champagne，” observed Aunt Rose） and settled in to people-watch. Wandering bands and church bells provided the soundtrack.
Next were the towns of Schonach and Triberg in the central Black Forest―what Rose described as two “clockmakers’ towns in a clockmakers’ valley.”In Schonach， we found workshops where clocks have been made by hand for centuries. We dropped in on fifth-generation clockmaker Christoph Herr， whose workshop was filled with the smell of wood shavings， glue and varnish. I had brought pictures of my cuckoo clock， in hopes of discovering its history. Judging from the carving， Mr. Herr said， it was from another shop， sadly now closed.
We overnighted at the 400-year-old Parkhotel Wehrle in Triberg， decorated in a style Aunt Rose called“farmhouse-baroque…all the curlicues and arabesques of the 16）baroque but painted with scenes of rural life.”It still looks pretty much that way. The concierge told us that Napoleon slept here in 1806. If so， he ate well. Black Forest ham and dumplings， we were told， have been a menu favorite since the hotel opened.
The guidebook recommended Freudenstadt（“sherbet-colored houses with steep dormered roofs”）， Gengenbach （“a medieval town full with half-timbered houses”） and Gutach （“where， for special occasions， women still wear bollenhüte―the traditional hats piled high with red pompoms like cherries on a Black Forest cake”）. But we were running out of time. In some villages， we stopped to stretch our legs； others， we just drove through slowly. Except for the odd satellite dish， most looked as if they had not changed much in the past 100 years.
Then， we were back on a two-lane road again―the Black Forest High Road―skipping over mountaintops toward Baden-Baden. Aunt Rose wrote rather poetically， “…the car throbs and purrs with satisfaction as the cool air enters the honeycomb of the radiator…and it seems to enjoy carrying us through so much beauty.” Stopping for just one day in Baden-Baden， we discovered that the fashionable 19th-century watering hole is now very 21st century. According to the old guidebook， Romans discovered the hot springs and built baths more than 2，000 years ago. The stone ruins remain， but contemporary museums and galleries share Lichtenaler Allee with Old World restaurants and cafes. At the guidebook’s recommendation， we stayed at the 125-year-old Brenners Park Hotel， where princes and presidents have slept.
We booked a water cure at the 17）palatial Frederichsbad， which offers soaking tubs， steam rooms， cold and hot showers and a vigorous brush massage. Later， buffed， polished and dressed up， we played classic French roulette with a black-tie crowd at the velvet-and-gilt Casino Baden-Baden. A strolling trio of violinists performed Strauss waltzes. It was a moment straight out of Aunt Rose’s time.
那是在德国黑森林里一个天清气朗的日子。远方的山峰上覆盖着一层薄薄的积雪，而我们将车顶棚放下，在一片浓密的树荫下沿着蜿蜒盘旋的山路行驶。小小的湖泊、葡萄园和茅草屋顶的农舍错落地分布在林间空地上。太阳刚刚下山，德语论文，琥珀色的夕阳滤过了层层枝叶。
接着，就像是某人突然按下了开关一样，森林里陡然变得一片漆黑，静寂诡异。我正想建议把车顶棚拉上，这时，我们发现了前方一座村庄的灯光。根据我们的地图显示，那里是沃尔法赫―也可能是希尔塔赫，或者也许我们甚至已经远至根根巴赫。很难说，德语毕业论文，因为那本旅行指南已经是100年前的了。
早在1914年夏天，我住在伦敦的曾姨婆露丝和曾姨公亨利克就拿着一本最新版的旅行指南，开车环游德国。他们把全家塞进一辆崭新的劳斯莱斯银魅车里，展开一段长达三个星期的穿越黑森林之旅―德国西南部一片山多林密，约有2300平方英里的地区。他们的冒险之旅因第一次世界大战的爆发被迫中断了。
我最近继承了一座精致的布谷鸟钟，是他们当年买来的旅游纪念品，还有他们的《德国汽车路线指南》。这本布面精装书里满满都是水彩插图和道路地图，写满了笔迹细小而优雅的注解―几乎可以肯定是出自曾姨婆之手。
“听听这个，”我丈夫大卫边说边和我一起翻阅她的注解：“‘路况一般都很好，路标清晰明了……但我们必须分外小心那些缓开慢行着的装满啤酒的马车和载满松木的牛车。’”
“我们应该去那里，”他说。
于是我们就去了。我们想要看看在时隔百年，历经两场世界大战之后，这本旧旅行指南里满溢激情描述到的黑森林是否还遗留着当初的几分颜色。露丝曾姨婆的开篇如下：“一段高低起伏的道路穿越巴登地区几个典型的欢乐‘大公国’村庄，把我们带至迷人的弗莱堡市。”我们将在一个星期内，行驶近100英里，从同一个地点―温泉小镇巴登巴登以北的弗莱堡市出发，尽我们所能地去重现亨利克和露丝的旅程。
弗莱堡市最具特色的是它的大教堂，一座深红色的沙岩大建筑，使得小城中心广场上那些带陡峭山墙的房屋全都相形见绌。而教堂内部则弥漫着乳香和牛脂的味道。“登上弗莱堡大教堂的石雕塔尖顶端。13世纪。景色壮丽”，露丝曾姨婆写道。我们跟随着她的脚步―想着她是不是身穿那个时代的紧身胸衣或窄底裙―登上了差不多300级楔形石阶直达尖塔顶端，停下来透过屋顶那镶着金银细丝的石雕一瞥下面的城市。
那本老旧的旅行指南称赞了施密特咖啡店，于1520年开张，黑森林蛋糕的最佳品尝地点之一。这款蛋糕是当地特色甜品，在巧克力蛋糕上层层铺满掼奶油和樱桃，通常还会撒上少量的樱桃酒。令人惊奇的是，施密特咖啡店仍然在营业。它看上去就像是自上世纪50年代以来再没修缮过，但其蛋糕令人有微醺的感觉，无比美味。
那天正好是集市日，货摊上高高堆满了当地的农产品、家庭加工的肉类和手工制作的方形奶酪。我们坐在户外的咖啡座上，点了一份当地酿造的比尔森啤酒（“啤酒是淡黄色的，泡沫丰富，看起来就像是浅色的香槟，”露丝曾姨婆评价道）并坐下静观人群。四处漫游的乐队和教堂的钟声则提供了配乐。
接下来是黑森林中心地区的施拉姆贝格和特里堡―露丝曾姨婆称其为“一个钟表匠之乡里的两个钟表匠小镇”。在施拉姆贝格，我们发现了一些工坊，那里数百年来一直都是纯手工制造时钟。我们拜访了五代相传的钟表匠克里斯托夫・ 赫尔，他的工坊里充满了木材刨花、胶水和清漆的味道。我早已带上了我那布谷鸟钟的照片，希望能发现其历史。根据其雕刻判断，赫尔先生说，它来自于另一家店，可惜现在已经关门倒闭了。
我们在特里堡的维尔勒公园酒店过了一夜，该酒店有着四百年的历史，其装修风格被露丝曾姨婆称为：“巴洛克式的农舍……满是巴洛克时期的花饰和图案，但壁画上描绘的却是乡村生活场景。”它看上去差不多还是那个老样子。看门人告诉我们说，拿破仑在1806年就曾在这里住宿过。如果真是那样，那他吃得也不错。我们听说，自从酒店开张以来，黑森林火腿和汤团一直都是最受欢迎的菜式。
那本旅行指南还推荐了弗罗伊登施塔特（“冰冻果子露色的房屋带有陡峭的装有天窗的屋顶”）、根根巴赫（“一座充满了半木结构房屋的中世纪小城”）和古塔赫（“在那里，在特殊的场合下，女性仍然会戴上大绒球帽―传统的帽子上顶着高高的红色丝球，就像黑森林蛋糕上的樱桃一样”）。但我们的时间不多了。在某些村庄里，我们停下来伸伸腿；至于其他的，我们只能慢慢驶过。除了零星的卫星电视天线碟，大多数看起来就像是在过去的百年间从未改变过一样。
接着，我们又一次回到了双车道大路上―黑森林高速公路―越过山顶通往巴登巴登。露丝曾姨婆写得相当富有诗意：“……当凉爽的空气进入蜂窝状散热器时，汽车心怀满足地跳跃哼唱，……它似乎也对乘载我们经过如此多美景而感到满意。”
我们只在巴登巴登停留了一天，发现这座19世纪的流行温泉胜地如今已经变得非常21世纪了。据那本旧旅行指南所述，罗马人发现了温泉，并在2000多年以前就建造了浴池。石头废墟仍在，但当代的博物馆和画廊都位于里奇腾塔乐大道上，“旧世界”餐厅和咖啡厅也在那里。根据那本旅行指南的推荐，我们住进有125年历史的布伦纳公园酒店里，王子和总统们也都曾在这里住过。
我们在富丽堂皇的弗里德里希浴场预订了水疗，那里提供浸浴浴缸、蒸气室、冷热水淋浴和强劲有力的刷式按摩。然后，我们浑身泡软、擦干磨亮并穿戴整齐，在满眼皆是天鹅绒和炫目镀金的巴登巴登赌场里，同衣着正式的人们一起玩传统的法式轮盘。一个小提琴三人组漫步而过，演奏着斯特劳斯的华尔兹。这一刻瞬间径直穿越到露丝曾姨婆的时代。 | 
