현대 패션에 나타난 아르데코 문양의 미적 특성 연구 : 2010S/S~2016F/W 패션컬렉션 중심으로 [韩语论文]

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This research systematically summarizes and analyzes the Art Deco style from the 1920's to consider the concept of Art Deco and the art style of Art Deco period such as painting, architecture, craft, fashion and fabric. The Art Deco pattern has a lot ...

This research systematically summarizes and analyzes the Art Deco style from the 1920's to consider the concept of Art Deco and the art style of Art Deco period such as painting, architecture, craft, fashion and fabric. The Art Deco pattern has a lot of influence on modern fashion and has been proposed as a new maze. Since the unique aesthetic and formative characteristics of Art Deco style and patterns are actively used in modern fashion, it is very worthwhile to grasp how Art Deco patterns are applied to modern fashion through systematic case analysis in this study. I have been looking at the background of the pattern in the Art Deco style. The purpose of this study is to clarify what kind of similarity and change appeared through the case of applying the art deco pattern to the fashion in the modern fashion based on the contents as I mentioned above and to derive an aesthetic characteristic. In order to carry out the research, I would like to examine the concept of art deco and art deco style by genre by reviewing literature data, The patterns of art deco patterns were collected and analyzed. Based on this, I selected visual data based on the 4 major collections from 2010S/S to 2016F/W. I have been carrying out empirical studies to compare and analyze the characteristics of patterns in Art Deco style through modern fashion cases. Art Deco is a design style that emerged in the early 1920s and refers to the design style that arises from the socio-cultural background of industrialization and globalization. Unlike Art Nouveau style, which flourished in the late 19th and early 20th centuries by emphasizing curves and splendid decorations, Art Deco is characterized by emphasizing straight and practical beauty through the combination of mechanical and industrial civilization. It can be seen that these characteristics are reflected and influenced in various fields such as painting, architecture, crafts, textile, and fashion. Based on this, it is revealed that there are influences from cultural exchanges and paintings as the background of art deco patterns, In the form of art deco patterns, geometrical shapes mainly appeared due to the influence of painting style Cubism, abstract art, futurism, and Egypt. In terms of color, it was influenced by the strong color contrast of fauvism and Russian ballet, In addition, it can be defined as an art deco pattern when the arrangement of patterns is repeated and regular arrangement is made and these three characteristics are compromised. As a result of analyzing the characteristics of specific art deco patterns in terms of form, color and composition, the shape of art deco patterns can be classified into plant-type art deco patterns and geometric art deco patterns mainly on motifs. The most common patterns are geometric shapes, Geographical patterns such as chevron of straight line and V-shaped pattern, zigzag pattern and jigurret pattern which form the pyramid of Egypt that flowed through cultural exchange, and various shapes such as triangles and squares are shown in a comprehensive manner. The plant-type Art Deco pattern is composed mainly of flowers and leaves as a motif, and it is characterized by separating and stylizing the molding elements by omission of factual depiction and by avoiding realistic descriptions. In addition, visual effects are obtained by drawing and expressing Schematically through the omission of contrast. At this time, the outline itself becomes a motif, and it may also represent a simple structure in which the next position of the motif can be predicted. In color, intense color contrasts using primary colors, gold, black, and pastel colors are exhibited, and regular arrangement and repetition are shown in composition. The results of analyzing art deco patterns in modern fashion are as follows. First, it is a form that appears as borrowing of motifs and repetitive expression. It can be seen that the artist expresses a change according to the modern sense of the designer by expressing it directly in the pattern or artwork appearing in the style of art deco period and expressing it in the costume or indirectly applying the form and expression technique of the motif in a similar way. Second, it can be seen that Art Deco patterns are expressed through strong contrast of colors. In particular, black is an important color that characterizes the Art Deco period. It plays an important role in expressing the aesthetic value inherent in the art fashion in contemporary fashion. Third, Art Deco pattern is a case of emphasizing the visual effect of material, for example, various materials such as embroidery, lace, velvet, and sequins. The use of these materials was effective in visually expressing the features of Art Deco patterns. The simple form of the art deco pattern increases the attention of the pattern and the simplicity of the geometric shape doubles the stability of the molding design using the pattern. In addition, Art Deco patterns have distinctive features from other patterns with morphological similarity because they contain inherent aesthetic characteristics through compromise of simplicity, color, and repetitive arrangement of patterns which can not be explained only by morphological characteristics. When art deco patterns are expressed in contemporary fashion, they are expressed reproduction beyond simple imitation. This is because, in the fast changing fashion, the designer 's subjectivity and modern art deco pattern are combined, It has an important meaning to communicate with the modern. In addition, I confirmed through the research that decorative expression is emphasized by increasing visual effect by using various materials. In this study, the aesthetic characteristics of art deco patterns in modern fashion are derived from four aspects: simplicity, compromise, reproducibility, and ornament. Through this study, it was found that Art Deco pattern has not only remained in the past style but also has contemporary beauty. Based on this aesthetic characteristic of Art Deco pattern which has been variously reinterpreted in modern times, It is expected that the Art Deco pattern will be used as a reference material to provide the basic data that can be utilized actively and to present the direction to re-interpret Art Deco pattern into future sense.

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