한·중·일 전통 건축과 복식 비교를 통한 패션디자인 개발 [韩语论文]

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In 1980’s famous Japanese designers showed the fashion design based on Japanese traditional costume beauty. And fashion world called it ‘Japanese style’ or ‘Kimono style’. The development method of design they showed was totally different fr...

In 1980’s famous Japanese designers showed the fashion design based on Japanese traditional costume beauty. And fashion world called it ‘Japanese style’ or ‘Kimono style’. The development method of design they showed was totally different from the previous method of western costume. The East Asian’s making method that keeps the form of fabric and makes form as it worn on body was unfamiliar design for western people. This is the common method of costume design in traditional costume of Korea, China and Japan. The world knows this as Eastern Asian style, the style that has been affected by culture of China at large, concretely kimono style. However, Korea doesn’t included in Eastern Asian style. Hanbok has different features from Chinese or Japanese traditional costume. Unfortunately, these features have not been developed to Korean style or Hanbok style that world can accept. To recognize the image of Hanbok as one of the indigenous style many designers should show the collection continuously based on the character of Hanbok, and the collection has to be seen as on image. However, borrowing the specific fragmentary image of traditional style doesn’t make it accepted as the new style, but can be vanished as one of a fad. Therefore, the design that has accurate identity of Korea should be shown to continuously. And it could be accepted as ‘Korean style’ or ‘Hanbok style’. . To find the identity of Korea, we have to make a clear knowledge of traditional culture of Korea that has been lasted from past to present. And we could know own character of Korea by finding common ground and differences from the comparison between neighboring countries that has similar cultural background. Fashion design has been made by the effect of contemporary lifestyle and common aesthetic sense. Therefore, we can find the common aesthetic element that affected costume by comparing the works of same era. This study tries to find the common aesthetic element by comparing architecture and costume which seems to share formative feature among food, clothing and shelter, the basic element of human living. I tried to draw the traditional costume design element that shows the identity of Korea from comparing the traditional architecture and costume of Korea, China and Japan. Result of the study, the feature of Korean costume elements is as follow. First is the line which harmonize with nature. The line that is seen in Korean architecture and costume has no rapid banding or exaggeration and is comfort. This soft line shows up as a gentle outline on the pattern of costume which affects the finished form of clothing during the design. General clothing pattern is basically composed of straight line and shapes that draws the small arc, but the pattern of Hanbok is drawn along the outline of human body using various kinds of curve that is similar to straight line. The clothes that used the pattern of Hanbok comforts the form and action of the body. The second is variability and functional that considered people’s life and activity. . Hanbok is a functional suit for people that is designed not to be decorative considering the activity. The goreum that is on the middle of Jeogori can make it easily to wear, and it can adjust the width of Jeogori by the wearer. Also, the skirt of Hanbok has the complete form by wearing the skirt that is half-completed. This character of Hanbok is the design point that connects to modern casual clothing based on functional, and also the element which can be developed to new casual clothing of modern fashion. The third is the color that prefers the nature. The colorway that used in Korean architecture and costume is vivid, and gives decorative effect by contrast of color. The color contrast of top and bottom of Hanbok makes it feel light, and by using analogous color with the color contrast, it makes the color harmonized and show rich impression of color. The last is simplified pattern of nature. . Korean traditional pattern brought the motif from nature, but it is not realistically described as China or simply modularized as Japan. The pattern was designed simple enough to recognize the origin, and it is well harmonized to nature. I used the four design elements(the line, form, color and pattern) that is mentioned above to develop 12 products. I attached the picture, diagramming and explanation of the product below. The product will be developed to various kinds of product and it will be on sale on worldwide wholesale market and on/off-line select shop. The study proceed to research specific factor of Korean image, and during the progress of study, the Korean design has been more clearly. I hope the additional study to go along that clearify the image of Korea by finding fundamental source which shows the identity of Korea by Korean traditional culture from now on.

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