조선후기와 에도시대 기생의 미용문화에 나타난 조형성 분석 [韩语论文]

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This study was conducted to compare gisaeng, the hetaerae of the ancient Korea (the Joseon dynasty) and geisha, ones of the ancient Japanese (the Edo period), with regard to the formative characteristics of hairstyles, accessories and makeups. The fol...

This study was conducted to compare gisaeng, the hetaerae of the ancient Korea (the Joseon dynasty) and geisha, ones of the ancient Japanese (the Edo period), with regard to the formative characteristics of hairstyles, accessories and makeups. The following show the results: First, trendy hairstyles during the late Joseon dynasty were tre-meori (similar to chignon), jjok-meori (hiar-stick bun), nangja-ssanggye (double topknot), ko-meori (ribboned braid bun), and daenggi-meori (tail braid). In terms of formative characteristics, Daengi-meori is straight and vertical, whereas the others are oval. Tre-meori is asymmetric, but jjok-meori, nangja-ssanggye, and ko-meori are symmetric. During the Edo period in Japan, yoko-hyogo, torobin-simadmage, tate-hyogo, and katsuya-mamage were in style. Yoko-hyogo and torobin-simadamage are triangular, tae-hyogo is long and oval, and katsuya-mamage is roundish. The four hairstyles are all symmetry. In terms of texture, tre-meori has a bumpy texture because it is braided. Daenggi-meori, jjok-meori and ko-meori have both a smooth texture, like cotton, and a bumpy texture like braided hair. Nangja-ssanggye looks neat and has a smooth texture. All the Japanese hairstyles are glossy and have a smooth texture. In terms of color, both countries are characterized by black hair. Second, accessories used during the late Joseon dynasty were mostly binyeo (hair stick), dwiggoji (hair ornament) and jeonmo (woman hat). These three were all symmetric. Binyeo has a long hair stick. Its tip was in the shape of a lotus bud, an animal, a figures, etc. The tip decorations were changed according to the times, but its body has changed little. Dwiggoji is a flat hair stick having decorations in the shape of a flower, a butterfly, or a ginko leaf, and it is trapezoidal but is approximate to a fan shape. Accessories used during the Edo period were kusi, kogai, and kanjasi, all of which are symmetric. Kusi is in the shape of a semicircular or rectangular comb. Kogai and kanjasi are all like long sticks. Accessories used during the late Joseon dynasty had different textures. Binyeo was mostly made of metal and thus has a smooth texture, but the texture of its tip decoration varies depending upon the material and workmanship. Dwiggoji made up of silver has a smooth texture, but at the same time has different textures according to the material and workmanship. Kusi, one of accessories used during the Edo period, has a smooth texture, but some of them have a bumpy texture according to intaglio or lacquering. Kogai also has a smooth texture. As regards kanjasi, the body has a smooth texture, but the decoration part has different textures according to the jewelry, intaglio and silverwork. In terms of color, the accessories of the late Joseon dynasty are mostly gold or silver, and their decoration parts tend to be colorful. Jeonmo made of mulberry were decorated with vari-colored s, various calligraphies and pictures, and therefore had a variety of colors. Kusi, one of Japanese accessories, was mostly blackish and reddish and decorated with dore materials. Kogai was mostly darkish, and kanjasi has different colors according to the material but tends to be colorful. Third, the makeup done during the late Joseon dynasty is characterized by crescent eyebrows with natural curves and small and roundish lips. Presumably, the small and roundish lips were not artificial but were natural. The makeup, done during the Edo period, shows thin, slanted eyebrows and small and roundish lips. In particular, the lips were very smaller than the face, which implies artificial makeup. In terms of color, the red color of yeonji (rouge) represented the makeup colors of the late Joseon dynasty, as in the Edo period. To be more concrete, however, the lip makeup of the Edo period was to rouge the lower lip green, hence, red and green represented the makeup of the Edo period. In terms of texture, the makeup of Joseon was focused on natural and soft touch by using natural powder. On the other hand, that of the Edo period features matt, dry texture with the use of milky liquid. As mentioned at the very beginning, this study was conducted to analyze the formative characteristics of hairstyles, accessories and makeups done by gisaeng and geisha. They led the fashion during their days, the late Joseon dynasty and the Edo period, and actually many women in those days appeared to imitate them. Such conformity behavior seems to influence the beauty culture of today full of blind followers of fashion. Korean and Japan neighboring each other in Southeast Asia have similar but different cultures. This study compared their cultures in the formative characteristics of hairstyles, accessories and makeups, and identified similarities and differences between them.This study was conducted to compare gisaeng, the hetaerae of the ancient Korea (the Joseon dynasty) and geisha, ones of the ancient Japanese (the Edo period), with regard to the formative characteristics of hairstyles, accessories and makeups. The following show the results: First, trendy hairstyles during the late Joseon dynasty were tre-meori (similar to chignon), jjok-meori (hiar-stick bun), nangja-ssanggye (double topknot), ko-meori (ribboned braid bun), and daenggi-meori (tail braid). In terms of formative characteristics, Daengi-meori is straight and vertical, whereas the others are oval. Tre-meori is asymmetric, but jjok-meori, nangja-ssanggye, and ko-meori are symmetric. During the Edo period in Japan, yoko-hyogo, torobin-simadmage, tate-hyogo, and katsuya-mamage were in style. Yoko-hyogo and torobin-simadamage are triangular, tae-hyogo is long and oval, and katsuya-mamage is roundish. The four hairstyles are all symmetry. In terms of texture, tre-meori has a bumpy texture because it is braided. Daenggi-meori, jjok-meori and ko-meori have both a smooth texture, like cotton, and a bumpy texture like braided hair. Nangja-ssanggye looks neat and has a smooth texture. All the Japanese hairstyles are glossy and have a smooth texture. In terms of color, both countries are characterized by black hair. Second, accessories used during the late Joseon dynasty were mostly binyeo (hair stick), dwiggoji (hair ornament) and jeonmo (woman hat). These three were all symmetric. Binyeo has a long hair stick. Its tip was in the shape of a lotus bud, an animal, a figures, etc. The tip decorations were changed according to the times, but its body has changed little. Dwiggoji is a flat hair stick having decorations in the shape of a flower, a butterfly, or a ginko leaf, and it is trapezoidal but is approximate to a fan shape. Accessories used during the Edo period were kusi, kogai, and kanjasi, all of which are symmetric. Kusi is in the shape of a semicircular or rectangular comb. Kogai and kanjasi are all like long sticks. Accessories used during the late Joseon dynasty had different textures. Binyeo was mostly made of metal and thus has a smooth texture, but the texture of its tip decoration varies depending upon the material and workmanship. Dwiggoji made up of silver has a smooth texture, but at the same time has different textures according to the material and workmanship. Kusi, one of accessories used during the Edo period, has a smooth texture, but some of them have a bumpy texture according to intaglio or lacquering. Kogai also has a smooth texture. As regards kanjasi, the body has a smooth texture, but the decoration part has different textures according to the jewelry, intaglio and silverwork. In terms of color, the accessories of the late Joseon dynasty are mostly gold or silver, and their decoration parts tend to be colorful. Jeonmo made of mulberry were decorated with vari-colored s, various calligraphies and pictures, and therefore had a variety of colors. Kusi, one of Japanese accessories, was mostly blackish and reddish and decorated with dore materials. Kogai was mostly darkish, and kanjasi has different colors according to the material but tends to be colorful. Third, the makeup done during the late Joseon dynasty is characterized by crescent eyebrows with natural curves and small and roundish lips. Presumably, the small and roundish lips were not artificial but were natural. The makeup, done during the Edo period, shows thin, slanted eyebrows and small and roundish lips. In particular, the lips were very smaller than the face, which implies artificial makeup. In terms of color, the red color of yeonji (rouge) represented the makeup colors of the late Joseon dynasty, as in the Edo period. To be more concrete, however, the lip makeup of the Edo period was to rouge the lower lip green, hence, red and green represented the makeup of the Edo period. In terms of texture, the makeup of Joseon was focused on natural and soft touch by using natural powder. On the other hand, that of the Edo period features matt, dry texture with the use of milky liquid. As mentioned at the very beginning, this study was conducted to analyze the formative characteristics of hairstyles, accessories and makeups done by gisaeng and geisha. They led the fashion during their days, the late Joseon dynasty and the Edo period, and actually many women in those days appeared to imitate them. Such conformity behavior seems to influence the beauty culture of today full of blind followers of fashion. Korean and Japan neighboring each other in Southeast Asia have similar but different cultures. This study compared their cultures in the formative characteristics of hairstyles, accessories and makeups, and identified similarities and differences between them.

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