With the development of economy, art and culture in the 21st century, human thoughts have become more diverse. At the same time, there has been a demand for brand-new design conceptualization and promotion method in fashion design as well. In fact, th... With the development of economy, art and culture in the 21st century, human thoughts have become more diverse. At the same time, there has been a demand for brand-new design conceptualization and promotion method in fashion design as well. In fact, there has been a functional shift in fashion design from practicality-focused function to aesthetic function with which diverse conceptual expressions can be made. Therefore, fashion designers have created artistic values and unique results by applying artistic concept to design through aesthetic approaches. ‘Gyeop’ is a Korean word which can be interpreted as the overlapping of several sheets. It also means ‘kyeo,’ a space between the sheets. In fact, it has been used aesthetically in art and become the origin of designers’expansion and creation of concept. In consideration of the said fact, this study attempted to analyze layered fashion which has lasted since the 1970s in connection with the aesthetic concept of ‘gyeop.’ In addition, it tried to broaden the range of conception and scope of aesthetic studies in fashion design by figuring out the esthetic characteristics of‘gyeop’ in layered fashion design. In terms of research methods, literature research and content analysis were conducted. For content analysis, works were primarily collected from Style.Com (). They were designed by Proenza Schouler, Narciso Rodriguez, Marc Jacobs, Gucci, Vera Wang, Burberry Prorsum, Valencia, Marni and Givenchy. For research procedures, first, the meaning of ‘gyeop’ was examined from aesthetic standpoint. Second, the artistic characteristics of ‘gyeop’ were investigated based on artistic perspective on ‘gyeop.’ Third, an analysis framework for layered fashion from 2007 to 2016 was established after reviewing the meaning and history of layered fashion and investigating the related words which appeared in fashion information forecast. Fourth, layered fashion design cases for the past decade were analyzed. Lastly, the artistic characteristics of ‘gyeop’ in layered fashion and its expression methods were reviewed. The study results found the followings: First, the meaning of ‘gyeop’ was confirmed as artistic thinking which includes morphologically overlapped faces and even the space between overlapped faces in spatial configuration. Second, the artistic features of ‘gyeop’ are found in ‘continuity’ which constitutes multilayered spatial perception in the process of flowing from its external to internal spaces. In contrast, ‘transparency’ reveals ambiguity through which spaces in different dimensions can be perceived at the same time and forms fluid space. Furthermore, in terms of the artistic features of ‘gyeop,’ ‘spatiality’between layers, ‘variability’ which originated from perceived space and designers’ creativity and ‘multiplicity’ associated with the concept of space and designers’ imagination as well as simple overlapping were derived. Third, the meaning of layered fashion was understood as a historical fashion style which emerged in a longer and richer silhouette by putting on several clothing items in an overlapped manner in 1974. It was summarized in collection with historical fashions such as hippie fashion, folklore fashion, punk fashion, unisex fashion and oriental fashion. According to review on layered fashion-related keywords in fashion information forecast, the layered fashion types which have been categorized since 2007 include over-layered fashion, traditional-layered fashion, sheer-layered fashion, simple-layered fashion, convergence-layered fashion and fake-layered fashion. Fourth, the content analysis on layered fashion design from 2007 to 2016 found the followings: First, according to analysis by the categorization of layered fashion design types, ‘traditional-layered fashion’ was most common, followed by, ‘convergence layered,’ ‘sheer-layered,’ ‘fake-layered,’ ‘simple-layered’ and ‘over-layered’ fashion. In terms of distribution for the past decade, ‘traditional-layered fashion’ has maintained a large portion. Therefore, it was confirmed that in layered fashion, traditional expression styles are continuously applied to fashion design based on their historical and cultural backgrounds. Second, in terms of the release of layered fashion design by fashion designer, Marc. Jacobs was the highest, followed by Marni, Vera Wang, Givenchy, Valencia, Gucci & Proenza Schouler, Narciso Rodriguez and Burberry Prorsum. In particular, Marni, Marc Jacobs and Vera Wang have continuously appeared and proposed diverse methods such as putting on several clothes, matching various items to make color blocks stand out. Third, according to analysis on the components of artistic expression characteristics of layered fashion design and ‘gyeop,’ the ‘H’line which expressed a clothing space in a relaxed manner was most frequent in terms of a silhouette. Regarding materials, combination with other materials was most common. The layered production targeted to make different textures harmonized with overall design was unique. In terms of color, analogous color arrangement was most frequent. Even though layered fashion was added by the use of analogous color with low hue difference, unexaggerated effects were found. Therefore, it’s been confirmed that the artistic expression characteristics of each layered fashion and‘gyeop’account for a great portion in deciding design, by making a particular element among silhouette, materials and color conspicuous. It’s been also found that particular design components were converged, creating differentiated fashion design. Fourth, according to the relevance between layered fashion types and artistic characteristics of ‘gyeop,’continuity was the highest in ‘over-layered fashion’ while spatiality and transparency were most frequently found in traditional-layered and sheer-layered fashion respectively. In simple-layered fashion, both continuity and spatiality were mostly found in the same percentage. In convergence-layered and fake-layered fashion, in contrast, multiplicity was most common. Consequently, layered fashion generated the evolution of layered fashion aesthetics through the expressive characteristics of transparency, variability and multiplicity to which designers’imagination and creativity were added as well as artistic characteristics such as spatiality and continuity through ‘gyeop’ space. Fifth, according to the relevance of historical theme between layered fashion types and layered fashion, oriental fashion was most common in over-layered fashion while folklore and oriental fashion was mostly found in traditional-layered fashion. In sheer-layered fashion, punk fashion was the highest while unisex fashion was common in simple-layered fashion. Furthermore, punk fashion was most common in convergence- and fake-layered fashion. After all, layered fashion has continuously affected fashion for a long period of time based on the artistic characteristics of ‘gyeop’ from a diachronic perspective. Therefore, it’s been able to derive the fact that the temporality-reflected western layered fashion has mostly its root to the artistic characteristics of oriental ‘gyeop.’ Sixth, in terms of relevance between layered fashion type and fashion designer, over-layered fashion was related with Proenza Schouler while Marc Jacobs revealed traditional-layered fashion. Sheer- and simple-layered fashion was mostly expressed by Vera Wang, and Marni mostly handled convergence-layered fashion. In addition, Marni and Valencia were related with face-layered fashion. In sum, analysis on the design characteristics of layered fashion through designers’collections based on the artistic characteristics of ‘gyeop’ found a visible trend as well as the modern styling methods of layered fashion. Lastly, the artistic characteristics of ‘gyeop’ in layered fashion were summarized based on case analysis on layered fashion in fashion trends as follows: First, continuity was the highest in ‘traditional-layered fashion’, followed by ‘simple-layered fashion,’ ‘fake-layered fashion’ and ‘over-layered fashion.’ Multilayered fashion which expresses a gradual space by forming relationship with differences among big-look types, patterns and materials was observed. With an addition of a time factor, furthermore, time continuity was formed in a clothing space, revealing expanded effects. Second, it was sheer-layered fashion which was most conspicuous in terms of transparency. In sheer-layered fashion, the depth and expansion of space were expressed with a multilayered space which reveals consecutive space at the same time by layering transparent materials. It showed the beauty of a human body, which is formed through the combination of a human body and clothing through the simultaneous perception of space. Third, spatiality was most frequent in ‘traditional-layered fashion,’ followed by ‘fake-layered fashion’and ‘simple-layered fashion.’ It revealed the possibility of new clothing space which converges time and space by forming deep spatiality by layering casual senses in a simple manner after reinterpreting traditional styles in diverse culture and producing interactions in inner and outer spaces. Fourth, variability most stood out in‘convergence-layered fashion.’This fashion revealed dissolving propensity escaping from the conventional framework. An organic shape such as a formless silhouette is integrated and united as multilayered structure, which in turn confirmed that the ‘gyeop’ space of layered fashion was expanded. Fifth, multiplicity was the highest in ‘convergence-layered fashion,’ followed by ‘traditional-layered fashion’ and ‘fake-layered fashion.’There been convergence for the establishment of a new concept for clothing space through the convergence of heterogeneous materials as well as the convenience of diverse temporality-reflected items. Furthermore, it has become possible in analyze layered fashion in a future-oriented manner through multiple structure based on texture fake techniques. As described above, in layered fashion from 2007 to 2016, new clothing types have been created with an addition of designers’ creativity as well as formative morphological expressions through the repetitive overlapping of design components such as multi-layered overlapping shapes. Furthermore, polysemous interpretation or designers’ imagination in architectural spatial design were expressed in a multiple manner by making the elements which exceed time and space limits coexist in another clothing space. As a result, layered fashion was interpreted as the artistic expression characteristics of ‘gyeop,’ confirming that an esthetic concept was used in expanding the range of design conception and development. Therefore, the esthetic value of layered fashion based on the artistic characteristics of ‘gyeop’ is meaningful as a process of converging both eastern and western aesthetic concepts. Furthermore, it would be a driving force for high value-added cultural industry, transcending genre limits in fashion. It is also anticipated that fashion design comprised of the aesthetic concept of ‘gyeop’ which integrates multilayered structure and multiple space would be able to expand the concept of formative nature of fashion design as a fashion styling and artistic space with diverse and creative concepts.
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