플로럴 패션디자인의 조형미 연구 (2)[韩语论文]

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Flowers, regardless of time and space throughout history, is the most well known symbol of beauty, signifying the great nature, life and women. The purpose of this research is to analyze the artistic forms of floral design in the 21st century fash...

Flowers, regardless of time and space throughout history, is the most well known symbol of beauty, signifying the great nature, life and women. The purpose of this research is to analyze the artistic forms of floral design in the 21st century fashion and explore the aesthetic values embedded in them by examining the characteristics of floral fashion design that appeared in the 20th century history based on understanding of the meaning of flowers expressed in arts and literature of the day. The flowers expressed in the religious paintings of the medieval period were used for iconography and the vanitas painting style that became popular around the seventeenth century expressed the ephemeral nature of our finite life and its vanity. The abstract paintings that painted the enlarged picture of the inside of the flowers or similar photographs that appeared in the twentieth century used flowers to express female or male sexuality, expanding the meaning of flowers into the world of sensuality. Accordingly, the flowers in art could have various meanings according to the spirit of the time. In the twentieth century fashion design, flowers were expressed in various modes according to the political, economic and cultural background of different periods: art nouveau, art deco, naturalism, orientalism, lines, pop art, unisex, etc. In this research, the period from 2007 to 2016 was chosen to analyze the artistic nature of floral fashion design. The data was based on women’s off-the-rack clothes collection. The samples were classified in terms of five artistic forms: silhouette and style; item, types of pattern; colors and contrast; and expressive techniques. Floral fashion design came in diverse styles of silhouette. The hourglass silhouette expressed either elegant and romantic style or sensual style. The straight silhouette expressed modern and mannish style; elegant style; and avant garde style. The bulk silhouette, although not used often, expressed futuristic and avant garde style. The fashion items of floral design were mostly dress, blouse and skirt. The floral patterns were used for casual and mannish styles such as sweat shirt, bomber jacket or biker jackets. Also, the mix of fashion items with different styles in floral fashion was expressed in modern style. The types of pattern that appeared in floral fashion design were as follows: the form pattern in which flowers are expressed in a flat design; the abstract pattern in which the shapes of flowers were expressed in abstract and unclear way; the geometric pattern in which an entertainment factor was stressed; and the realistic pattern that realistically depicted the flower shapes. The neutral color scheme of floral fashion design were expressed as follows: elegant, neat and futuristic style; modern and unisex style; sensual style; and avant-garde style. Also, neutral and chromatic color scheme was expressed in sensual, modern and entertaining style. The chromatic color scheme led to romantic and fantastical style while metallic color scheme was manifested in exotic or futuristic style. The floral fashion design used flat expression techniques such as print, lace, embroidery, jacquard, appliqué and cut-out as well as multi-dimensional technique using floral objects. Using complex expression techniques, optical illusion, 3-dimensional surface effect and overlay effect were employed to stress the decorative quality of floral fashion. The artistic beauty derived from aesthetic analysis of floral fashion design described above is summarized as follows. First, to express disciplined elegance, an hourglass silhouette, which resembles the curve of female body, was used in addition to pastel and nude tone colors. Second, decadent sensuality was expressed using the silhouette that reveals and exposes body; realistic floral pattern in black background; or large floral motifs. Also, decadent beauty was created via indirect exposure such as in floral lace. Third, modern feminine beauty was expressed using straight silhouette items borrowed from men’s clothes and the use of floral pattern with mannish style in monotone color scheme. The modern feminity reflected feministic ideal of woman and the post-modern mixed gender. Fourth, the romantic beauty of nature was expressed using the hourglass silhouette that naturally expresses human body and realistic floral pattern, which exuded the beauty and vitality of nature. Also, high-tech techniques such as computer graphics was embraced to create more complex aspects. Fifth, exotic and fantastic beauty were expressed using the Eastern culture, unique Korean costumes, and the flower images used in traditional paintings. The fantastic nature was emphasized as the mythical symbolism and the signs of auspice were transferred. Sixth, the beauty of futuristic decorations was expressed in terms of futuristic floral fashion design using new shapes and texture obtained from changing materials. Also, use of digital technologies such as digital printing and 3D embroidery were aggressively applied to diverse colors and floral patterns in complex ways to stress decorative quality. This research succeeded in discovering the expanded significance of modern floral fashion design as a symbol of modern feminity where it expresses disciplined feminine elegance while expressing sensuality and both ideal male and female ideals coexist. Against the background of innovation in scientific technology and rapidly changing environment, the natural romantic beauty of floral fashion was magnified, expressed in terms of exotic fantasy that transcends time and space and futuristic decorations to which various digital technologies were aggressive applied.

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