This study looked into women’s costume from the 18th century to 20th century, and analyzed formative characteristics of the decoration shown at costume by objecting 『FASHION IN DETAIL 1700-2000』. Research results are same as follows. First, Bar... This study looked into women’s costume from the 18th century to 20th century, and analyzed formative characteristics of the decoration shown at costume by objecting 『FASHION IN DETAIL 1700-2000』. Research results are same as follows. First, Baroque style which was huge and luxurious after Louis XVI died during 1700-1715 when was early 18th century, and Sinuazuri style appeared by mixing with curve-shaped Rococo style while the Sinuazuri style became popular. The mixing of Baroque style with Rococo style was composed of lobo volante, cloak, stomacher, corset, petticoat etc., it had colorful and delicate characteristics. Brocade, silk, linen of silver gray, red, blue etc. were used to hourglass silhouette mainly. Stomacher was decorated with embroidery, and also lobo, clock with pleats. In 1715-1774, mid term, textile industry and dying technology were developed, and splendid, soft Rococo style became popular by getting influences from decorative art in which aristocratic, curve line performed to whole art. Rococo style was colorful and delicate characteristically because of being composed of robe a la francaise, corset, underskirt, panier etc. For hourglass silhouette, silk, lace, muslin of yellow, deep red, blue etc., were used mainly. Decolletage was decorated with ruffle, frill, pearl, ribbon, and the sleeve with engageantes, pabala, embroidery, and also robo, underskirt, stomacher with ruffle, frill, ribbon, fringing. In 1774-1800, last period, Polonaise style whose length became shortened by wrinkling skirt came to the front while Marie Antoinette costume was influenced and practicality was emphasized after French Revolution. Polonaise style was composed of robe a langlaise, overskirt, petticoat, so it had splendid, active characteristics. For bustle silhouette, silk, wool, cotton of purple brown, ivory, red were used. As features of this style, overskirt was decorated with drape and fine lines, and also sleeve, petticoat, neckline, decolletage with frill and ruffle. Second, in 1801-1820, early 19th century, neo-classic style appeared because neo-classicism style affected influences to costume having been popularized while learning classics such as philosophy, literature, science, art of ancient Greek to eradicate aristocratic scenery by bourgeois. Neo-classic style was composed of chemise gown, train, shawl etc.,so it had simple, elegant characteristics. For empire silhouette, muslin, linen, silk of white, blue, yellow etc mainly. Gown and shawl were decorated with drape and embroidery, and also the sleeve with puff. In 1820-1870, mid term, Romantic style came out because governing class hoped return to old system like pre-French Revolution, and exposed romantic atmosphere to whole life including literature, music, art. Romantic style was composed of dress, corset, crinoline etc., it had exaggerated, luxurious characteristics. For hourglass silhouette, silk, velvet, wool, lace of white, sapphire, red etc were used. Ruffle, frill, fringing were decorated to dress and sleeve. In 1870-1900, last period, mass production of cloths became possible due to invention of sewing machines, and social participations by women were expanded, so practical, active Bustle style appeared. Bustle style was composed of dress, two-piece suite, jacket, cape etc., and it had functional, practical characteristics. For h-type silhouette, cotton, twill, velvet, silk etc. of pastel, brown, purple were used mainly. Decorations were made like drape, pleats, fringing, ribbon to overskirt and underskirt, braid and button to two-piece suit, fur to jacket and cape. Third, in 1901-1930, early 20th century, expansion of sports and jazz culture came out along with Art Deco style as belle epoque period, ladyish minaret style and boyish flapper style appeared mixedly. Two styles were composed of hobble skirt, tunic top, two-piece suite, stocking, and had practical characteristics. Silk, nylon, jersey of black, gray, brown, purple etc were used mainly for hourglass silhouette and straight silhouette. Pleats was decorated to skirt, and ribbon and button to shirts and bodice. In 1930-1960, middle term, long & slim style which was practical and temperate, military style appeared while unemployment rate was increased due to the Second World War and ration system of textile was made, and new look style to which feminity was stressed came out. Such styles were composed of flared skirt, midi skirt, jacket, shirts etc., and exposed functional, bisexual properties characteristically. To these styles, nylon, polyester, silk, cotton of red, orange, green blue to long & slim, hourglass, alphabet line silhouette. Jacket and skirt were decorated with pleats and button, and dress with ribbon. In 1960-2000, last period, various styles appeared while mass culture was spread to all global village due to development of public media and personality was regarded as important. Such styles were composed of mini skirt, one piece, pants, suit etc., and had unique, vague sexual distinction characteristics. Plastic, jean, leather, cotton of achromatic color, vivid, metallic, blue were mainly used to lstraight, fitted, sheath, loose silhouette. One piece and suit were decorated with buttons. Fourth, there were gather, pleats. drape in flounce as making three-dimensional feeling by repeated lines that were made after curling and folding the surface. Gather expressed voluminous, rhythmic properties while multiple layers of fine wrinkles having been made by scratching the sleeve of cotton dress having splendid pattern of yellow, ivory, green color in the 19th century and neckline of red jersey dress in the 20th century. performed curve and radiation line. Pleats expressed voluminous, vertical properties while wrinkles of straight line were performed by fixing the backside of back gown of yellow silk color in the 18th century, front of cotton dress having brown patterns on blue background in the 19th century, and total red, black silk cape in the 20th century after folding them with uniform spacing. Drape expressed voluminous, non-forming properties while folded wrinkles performed non-forming so as not to take regular forms and had naturalness of total cotton dress of the 19th century and silk gown dress of ivory, green, red in the 18th century. Fifth, embroidery decoration was made by using varios threads to the surface, and had plain embroidery and three-dimensional one. Plain embroidery expressed flatness and visibility while embroidering curve patterns by using cotton thread of white and silk thread of silver, red, green, yellow to gown and shawl of the 19th century, shirts in the 20th century. Three-dimensional embroidery expressed three-dimensional, tangible properties while embroidering gown of the 18th century, dress of the 19th century, jacket in the 20th century with linen thread of beige, silk of white, silk thread of silver, and by embroidering spiral, diamond-shaped patterns through quilting and smoking technique. Sixth, there were ribbon, braid, fringing, button, sequin and beads, feather and fur etc. in attachment decoration as giving changes to thickness and texture by attaching a lot of materials to the surface. Ribbons expressed clarity and openness by making curve and flower shapes with bands having been made with laces of green, soft pink, ivory regarding Mantua of the 18th century, dress of the 19th century, and dress of the 20th century. Braid expressed clarity and flexibility while performing straight and curve, wave shapes by attaching strings which weaved jackets of the 18th, 19th, 20th century with silk thread of black and fur hair of gray. Fringing expressed clarity and flexibility while attaching and repeating fringes having been made with silk thread of red, white, yellow, orange, blue, green, pink and velvet to the dress in the 19th century and 20th century together with stomacher. Buttons expressed clarity and functionality while repeating straightly by attaching circular button that wrapped jackets of the 19th century and 20th century with gold-color foils and button of bee shape, Sequin and beads expressed clarity and glossiness by attaching sphere, bee, petal, leaf shapes to the shawl of the 19th century and dress of the 20th century. Feather and fur expressed ambiguity and voluminous properties after performing straight line and curve by attaching coak feather of black and green, fox fur of white to cape and neclice in the 19th century. ，韩语论文网站，韩语论文题目 |
