인프라 패션에 표현된 사도마조히즘 미의식 연구 (2)[韩语论文]

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The ideal beauty is fluidly changing by the socio-cultural phenomena. Human beings have endeavored constantly to realize the ideal beauty. Selecting garments as a tool to express the ideal beauty which the age demands, they have created the ideally ae...

The ideal beauty is fluidly changing by the socio-cultural phenomena. Human beings have endeavored constantly to realize the ideal beauty. Selecting garments as a tool to express the ideal beauty which the age demands, they have created the ideally aesthetic images by expressing their own inner self and reconstructing a human body. The infra-fashion is adopted as one of tools fulfilling the desire to see the opposite sex and highlighting the femininity, and in the sadomasochistic perspective, which is an extremely personal sexual-orientation, reinterpreted the infra-fashion. Thus, this study, analyzed the concept and characteristics of the infra-fashion and sadomasochism, and the aesthetic sense of sadomasochism drawn through the analysis on the formative characteristics of the infra-fashion expressed by sadomasochism. In terms of the research method to do this, a literature research was carried out, paralleled with the case studies for fashion. The period of examining the sadomasochism expressed in the infra-fashion included from 1980s, when the expression of infra-fashion started in earnest, to 2015 year. When it comes to the literature study, the research was carried out centered the books related to psychoanalysis, fine are, art, dress aesthetics, and fashion, and the preceding theses. In the research targets on the fashion cases, the sadomasochism works were selected, which were expressed in the infra-fashion, based on the overseas collections, pictorials, preceding study materials. The infra-fashion was developed as the concept of everyday wear and casual wear by making the boundaries between underwear and outerwear vague, as a fashion style making the underwear intentionally exposed, or borrowing the elements and motifs of the underwear. The sadomasochism expanded an individual's sexual orientation, was used as a tool to express the sexual fantasies and desire, and emerged as the various looks in the fashion, having an impact on the whole world of society, culture, art, etc. The sadomasochism was classified as a part of the fashion taste and investigating the fashion cases of sadomasochism, and the result is as follows: The result of drawing the formative analysis on the infra-fashion expressed in the sadomasochism was assorted into “the mixed expression of jarred wearing types”, “the sensuous material expression as a provocative tool”, and “the symbolic representation of black color”. The mixed expression of jarred wearing types emerged as a form of infra-fashion designed by revealing outwardly the underwear which has been prohibited from being exposed, and borrowing the underwear designs or utilizing intactly the underwear. In the sensuous material representation as a provocative tool, the materials have been changed variously according to the development of technological society, and the symbolism which the materials had played an important role in the infra-fashion. The symbolic representation of black color granted the various meanings by utilizing not only the silhouette change of clothes but also the symbolic aspects the color has. In the past, the black highlighted the strong and dominating aspects as the color symbolizing a man. Based on the formative analysis of the infra-fashion expressed in sadomasochism, we drew the aesthetic senses, which were classified into 3 kinds of aesthetic senses, "the voluptuously corruptive beauty”, “the playfully cruel beauty”, and “the voyeuristicly fearful beauty”. The voluptuously corruptive beauty could be an example where it highlights the womanhood and increases the sexual attraction, using the duality of the concealment and exposure, which the infra-fashion has, as a theme. Highlighting the womanhood maximized and expressed plainly the sensuality, which stimulated the human imagination and showed the distorted forms of sex, appearing in the sadomasochism. "The playfully cruel beauty”, which is contrary to the ideal beauty, showed the forms where the beauty of cruel, non-ideal, or brutal forms became contrary to the ideal beauty. As such categories became contained into sadomasochism, it represented even more violent aggression and cruelty of human beings. "The voyeuristicly fearful beauty” is a form focused on “see”, “seeing”, and “peeping”, which provoked the human’s peeping desire. The desire to see the hidden different body part of the opposite sex, furtive sexual-activity between men and women, and so on, and the provocation of sexual stimulation through these were expressed by the voyeuristic viewpoint. The aesthetic sense of sadomasochism represented in the infra-fashion was classified into 3 types, and the diversity of sexual desires human beings have was presented through the fashion cases. The sadomasochism should not be considered only limited to a tool for the men and women's sexual activity, but it may have an impact on the overall human life, such as culture, relationships, art, fashion, and so forth, and the non-ideal things and non-beautiful emotions have emerged as the themes inducing a new interest and an artistic pleasure. The significance lies in that this study classified the sadomasochism as a taste of fashion by understanding the popularity of sadomasochism which has been considered as a secret taste of individual, and studied the aesthetic sense of sadomasochism, represented in the infra-fashion, by considering it as a new value. The limitations of this study are that the materials used in the analysis was only visual materials, not the real thing, and the design was not made through the aesthetic sense of sadomasochism, expressed in the infra-fashion. Therefore, in the subsequent researches, I think, the more intensive researches by complementing the limitations of this study, and the study on the production and evaluation of the real thing through designing shall be implemented together.

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