염모제 주성분의(Ammonia, MEA-PPD, TDS) 모발손상에 관한 원료실험 연구 (2)[韩语论文]

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Dyeing procedure became general menu as it’s hard to find hair without dyeing procedure like stylish dyeing, dyeing to cover white hair and etc if we look around. I also started planning experiment thesis about a hairdye since beginning course o...

Dyeing procedure became general menu as it’s hard to find hair without dyeing procedure like stylish dyeing, dyeing to cover white hair and etc if we look around.
I also started planning experiment thesis about a hairdye since beginning course of master but it was difficult task to find pure hair that hadn’t done chemical procedure(dyeing, perm) for a long time above all.
Like this, I found the fact that there’s no specific and objective data about maleficence to human body, damage and safety of hair and scalp of hairdye in general and ordinary dyeing procedure culture and became to proceed experiment after feeling necessity of raw material experiment according to maleficence to human body and hair damage of main ingredient of a hairdye at this point.

Summary of this experiment is as followings.
I compared and analyzed hair damage degree of raw material itself of alkaline chemical(‘Ammonia’, MEA(monoethanolamine)) which is main ingredient of 1system of a hairdye and ‘PPD(para phenylin diamine)’ and ‘TDS(sulfuric acid toluene2,5-diamine)’ that are used as representatives of intermediate dye and hair damage when mixing and using 1system and hydrogen peroxide by making 19 samples. And I measured by differentiating them to post-processing shampoo(alkali shampoo of ph8, slightly acid shampoo of ph5.5).

Firstly, I shot cross-sectional drawing with 2000 magnification through electron scanning microscope(SEM), observedand listed in order of high damage degree as following.
Along with ammonia aqueous solution > MEA aqueous solution exclusive use, Ammonia/hydrogen peroxide > MEA / hydrogen peroxide had more damage. In exclusive use, ammonia is found out to be raw material having stronger hair damage than MEA.
The result of mixture experiment of intermediate dye and alkali is as followings.(listed in order of damage degree)
MEA/PPD/hydrogen peroxide > ammonia/PPD/hydrogen peroxide > MEA/TDS/hydrogen peroxide > ammonia/TDS/hydrogen peroxide
‘Ammonia/TDS’ mixture had the least hair damage. The reason was that the mixture of ‘ammonia’ of strong alkalinity and ‘TDS’ having strong acidity of sulfuric acid had chemical neutralization reaction and showed change in ph.
In the result of SEM shooting about post-processing of detergent, the difference was incomplete and it was rather difficult to compare and analyze damage degree with one-time experiment.

Secondly, followings show hair damage degree as a result of absorbance experiment using spectrum intensity meter.
MEA/hydrogen peroxide > MEA/TDS/hydrogen peroxide > ammonia aqueous solution / alkali shampoo post-processing
MEA/TDS/hydrogen peroxide > ammonia/hydrogen peroxide > MEA/hydrogen peroxide > ammonia aqueous solution > ammonia/PPD/hydrogen peroxide / slightly acid shampoo post-processing
It’s found out that mixture of ‘MEA/TDS’ had the highest damage degree as a result of absorbance experiment.

Thirdly, following is the result of tensile strength experiment using multi tensile intensity meter.
MEA/PPD/hydrogen peroxide > ammonia/TDS/hydrogen peroxid > MEA/TDS/hydrogen peroxide > ammonia/PPD/hydrogen peroxide > MEA/hydrogen peroxide
If hair damage is increased, tensile strength could grow by hair swelling and softening action and it can’t be necessarily healthy hair even if tensile strength is high.
As there was a case showing higher tensile strength based on the standard of virgin hair in extremely damaged hair and there was no significance with tensile strength statistically, measured value of tensile strength in extremely damaged hair is unreliable. And samples with high tensile strength but of damaged hair showed the highest damage degree in absorbance, which is same with the sample showed significance in absorbance. That is, as MEA, MEA/TDS that had the highest damage in absorbance didn’t have significance of tensile strength, I can know that it had the highest damage degree.

Outline of this experiment is as followings.
‘Ammonia’ had a lot of hair damage more than ‘MEA’ even when exposing exclusively or using hydrogen peroxide.
It’s found out in SEM shooting that ‘Ammonia’ which is the most generally used among existed hairdye textures and intermediate dye ‘PPD’ had a lot of hair damage and, as reliable result, were concluded to a cause of hair damage in significance of absorbance and tensile strength.
But unexpectedly, the mixture of ‘MEA/TDS’, which is usually used as alternative substance according to a side effect of existing hairdye ingredient, had the most hair damage in the result of experiment. This shows that alternative substance might be valid in side effect to human body and maleficence but in terms of hair damage degree, it’s the most related to hair damage as a result of experiment through absorbance and tensile strength. It had much higher absorbance and the highest tensile strength in the standard of judging damage degree.
‘Ammonia’ had the most damage in exclusive procedure. If it’s mixed with intermediate dye, damage is cancelled out. In case of ‘MEA’, the damage increased in the mixture with intermediate dye rather than exclusive procedure. And as ‘TDS’ itself is found out to be the cause of hair damage, it’s an absolute result that ‘MEA/TDS’ is the texture with the highest damage degree.
This experiment is data giving weight to hair damage apart from maleficence of human body. In previous advanced research, the research about hair damage and maleficence of hairdye was made actively. But it experimented damage and stainability of color formulation of each akali ‘ammonia’ and ‘MEA’ or intermediate dye ‘PPD’ and ‘TDS’ and it’s rather difficult to objectify all the results as they were results experimented complete products.
As the data determined in this study is reenacted all number of cases of raw material mixture used in experiment, it’s considered to be more objective and concrete data showing correlation according to damage of raw material of hairdye itself.

KEYWORDS
Ammonia, p-phenylenediamine, PPD, monoethanolamine sulfate, MEA, toluene 2,5-diamine, TDS, dye, hair damage, the hazards of the dye, Semi-permanent hair dyes

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