This study investigates the apparel fit problems arising when down-aging middle-aged women wear the clothing from the brands targeting women in the 20s and 30s. Also, this study determines the preferred fit by the down-aging middle-aged women. The res... This study investigates the apparel fit problems arising when down-aging middle-aged women wear the clothing from the brands targeting women in the 20s and 30s. Also, this study determines the preferred fit by the down-aging middle-aged women. The research item was the tailored jacket, and the aim was to develop jacket pattern appropriate for down-aging middle-aged women. A survey was conducted on middle-aged women in their 40s and 50s. The respondents were classified into the down-aging middle-aged group and non down-aging middle-aged group, with respect to their fashion consumption. Then, the jacket wearing conditions and fit preferences were compared and analyzed between the two groups. Additionally, the body measurements of women in their 20s and 30s and women in their 40s and 50s were compared and analyzed using data from 7th Size Korea in order to examine the fit discomfort that would appear when women in their 40s and 50s wear clothing targeted at those in their 20s and 30s. To examine the body measurements of down-aging middle-aged women specifically, the main target group of this study, a selected number of down-aging middle-aged women measured. The resulting measurements provided necessary data for the jacket pattern development for the study. The highly preferred jacket brands were selected by classifying Korean women's clothing brands into those targeting women in their 20s and 30s and women in their 40s and 50sin order to conduct market research on jackets. Differences in design, silhouette, detail, and product measurements of tailored jackets by brand groups classified based on target age were examined. Based on the market research and the survey, the design of the jacket pattern to be developed in this study was selected. The size 55(S) and 66(M) patterns from five women's casual brands targeting women in their 20s and 30s were collected and the pattern size was analyzed. Using the collected pattern, muslin jackets were made. The muslin jackets were evaluated through wearing test by the down-aging women who had the average body measurements of the down-aging group. The most satisfying jacket pattern was selected. The results of the muslin jacket wearing test was aggregated based on the selected pattern. The study pattern was then created by making the final fit modifications to the jacket areas pointed out in the analysis. Using the first study pattern, jackets were made using muslin and fashion fabric. The jackets were evaluated through wearing test by the same down-aging women again. The final study pattern was created by applying fit modification to the jacket areas based on the respondents' evaluation. A well fitting final jacket pattern for down-aging middle-aged women was proposed. The results of this study are as follows. First, the groups were divided into the down-aging and non-down-aging groups. The results of the comparative analysis on the jacket purchase and fit preference between the groups showed that the down-aging group considers design as the most important factor in selecting a jacket, whereas the non-down-aging group considers size and fit as the most important factors. Especially, the down-aging group mostly wears a size S(55), and the non-down-aging group, a size M(66). The women in the down-aging group preferred a simple and modern jacket style and a slim-fit jacket. Both groups highlighted that the upper arm and the arm hole part are the most uncomfortable parts when wearing a jacket; when wearing a commercial brand jacket, the upper arm circumference was evaluated as uncomfortable area. However, the down-aging group indicated a smaller average value for the ease preference compared with the non-down-aging group, indicating that the down-aging group prefers tightly fitting clothing. Second, the results of the body measurement showed differences between the two groups in several categories. The items with significant differences were chest circumference, bust circumference, front breadth, and back width, which are important measurement locations during pattern drafting. All items with significant differences showed that the down-aging group had a significantly smaller value than the non down-aging group. Additionally, significant differences were found in chest circumference, bust circumference, waist circumference (natural indentation), waist circumference (omphalion), neck point to breast point, bishoulder length, armscye circumference, upper arm circumference, elbow circumference, and wrist circumference between the down-aging group and women in their 20s and 30s. In all categories showing significant differences, the body size of down-aging middle-aged women generally had larger values. The average measurements of down-aging middle-aged women measured for this study were as follows: height of 159.91 cm, weight of 53 kg, bust circumference of 88.47 cm, waist circumference of 73 cm, and hip circumference of 91.26 cm. Third, the jacket design and other details showed differences according to brand and target age group. Jackets from domestic women's brands targeting those in their 20s and 30s and in their 40s and 50s, respectively, showed meaningful differences in fit, silhouette, length, double slit of the sleeve, existence of welt pocket on the chest, collar and pocket of the jacket, vent, and princess line. Jacket measurements showed significant differences between the women's casual brands and middle-aged women's clothing brands in the chest size for S(55)-sized jackets, and the shoulder width, arm length, and chest circumference for M(66)-sized jackets. The results showed that the jacket measurements which are closely related to the pattern measurements showed differences between the two brand types. Fourth, muslin jacket were constructed using the patterns from the five women's casual brands for sizes S(55) and M(66) each. A total of six down-aging women, three for each size, participated in the wear test of the muslin jackets. Professionals also evaluated the fit of the jackets photos of the six women wearing the jackets. The results showed that the pattern of Company D was ranked as the most well fitting jacket pattern by the down-aging women and professionals. A front dart on the armhole princess line and fish dart on the front panel are characteristic of the pattern of Company D. Further, the jacket length is longer compared with the jacket length of the other companies; the hemline is the longest as well and with a narrow lapel. Fifth, based on the fit comments from the down-aging women who participated in the wear tests and professional evaluators, modifications were made to the pattern of Company Din order to create the first study pattern. For both the S(55) and M(66) sizes, the waist dart was adjusted on the front, side, and back panels to make the waist narrower and slimmer, and the sleeve hem was adjusted to make for a slimmer fit. Additionally the upper arm circumference was made larger for extra ease, and a polyurethane-based fabric was selected to improve movement flexibility. The first study pattern was made with muslin to compare with the fit of Company D's pattern, and was also made with real fabric (14% polyurethane, 86% polyester) selected from the market research. The manufactured jacket was evaluated according to the same method as the previous wear test by the down-aging women and the professionals in order to compare the fit of Company D's pattern and the first study pattern. The muslin jacket made from the study pattern needed modifications on sleeve and jacket length. The jacket made with real fabric needed modifications not only on the sleeve and jacket length but also on the chest, waist, elbow, and sleeve hem widths. The results showed that jacket fit differs depending on the properties of the fabric even when made with the same pattern. The properties of the real fabric selected for this study contained polyurethane, and the elasticity of the fabric caused changes to the final product measurements of the jacket. Therefore, final modifications were made on the deviant values in size by verifying the differences in the product measurement of the muslin jacket and real fabric jacket. The real fabric jacket made using the finally modified pattern had higher measurement satisfaction and measurement appropriateness compared with the real fabric jacket made using the first study pattern. This study also proposed a pattern drafting method of size S(55) jackets, which is the basis for pattern drafting of women's clothing brands. According to the proposed method, the non-stretching (woven, textile) fabric of muslin is appropriate for the fit requirements of down-aging middle-aged women. The method also provides grading rules when grading the S(55)-size pattern into an M(66)-size pattern. In addition, this study proposed a modification rules that can be applied to pattern for a non-stretching fabric to make the pattern for a stretching fabric. This study serves the preliminary data for the sizing system, grading method, pattern design, and material selection with respect to jacket production, for domestic women's clothing brands targeting women in their 20s and 30s but also preferred by middle-aged women to widen their consumer age ranges. Moreover, this study contributes to research on the pattern and product design desired by middle-aged women conducted by women's clothing brands targeting middle-aged women. The findings are expected to shed light on the lifestyle, clothing design, and fit preference of middle-aged women.
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