한국의 안경 문화와 안경 디자인사 (2)[韩语论文]

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This study is a critical analysis of eyewear design changes in Korean history. Prior to Cho-sun dynasty, glasses were designed only for the purposes of either eye protection or eyesight adjustment. There were no alternative products available at the t...

This study is a critical analysis of eyewear design changes in Korean history. Prior to Cho-sun dynasty, glasses were designed only for the purposes of either eye protection or eyesight adjustment. There were no alternative products available at the time, thus naturally becoming a symbol of wealth and social status. Cho-sun dynasty was still a Confucian era, which did not allow people of lower social status to wear glass at the presence of those higher statuses then themselves. Wearing glasses thus had strong ties to culture and social background. Functionality and design are influenced by history, and it the purpose of this study to observe the change. This study analyzes designs of eyewear but also looks into cultural backgrounds that gave influence. Glasses were first introduced to Korea through foreign trade. It is the first impact on Korean culture and early productions of glasses that can shed understanding of change in glasses design direction and development. The purpose of this study is to suggest future direction of design using the historical analysis. The core elements of this study are “cultural influences of eyewear” and “change of eyewear design” in Korean history. The two elements are divided into three separate historical timeframes: past, near present, and current. ‘Past’ starts from late 16th century introduction of glasses to Korean culture to late Cho-sun dynasty. ‘Near present’ starts from late 19th century Japanese influence in Korean glasses production to era just prior to 1945 Korean liberation. ‘Present’ starts from the liberation where Korean glasses industry bloomed and up to present day. The “cultural influences of eyewear” reflect on ‘past’ timeframe through stories involving glasses at the time as well as functions it provided. ‘Near present’ timeframe reflects on self-perception of image by glasses users as well as trends that followed. ‘Present’ timeframe reflects on background of current day glasses industry in Korea. Using all three timeframes, “change of eyewear design” will be portrayed in the study. Analysis on eyewear industry and economic factors has been the mainstream sources of understanding design changes in Korean glasses trend. While previous studies have stopped there, this study includes news articles, magazines, Korean glasses museum data, and portraits. Of all the resources used, news articles provided most useful data for understanding exact context of how glasses influenced the culture. Social and cultural characteristics of the glasses were revealed as follows. Glasses initially were entered around traditional age during the Japanese invasion in 1592. The elderly who have poor eyesight and belong to the upper class primarily accepted it, which affected making new manners of the glasses for the high and elders and been delayed the popularization. Next, after glasses have been popularized at the end of the Joseon Dynasty, phenomenon in modern era revealed importation of gold and plastic glasses frame. That were very popular because gold was symbolized wealth and students wore glasses for intelligent face. After 1960s, production increased significantly in the country, but domestic production was unmarketable because of lower quality than imported goods. Also glasses were adopted as export goods because of export policy, it began to export low-cost rather than quality. Going through a period, glasses’ quality is increasing due to policy in 1986. Since starting to design development the 2000s because of recognizing eyeglasses fashion, glasses had become a means to convey a new image of the face. The current glasses has a new fashion and style with annual consumption. Looking at “design of glasses” traditional glasses of the past were imports from China. There were only a few with unique Korean designs at the 코다리 distributing in the market. In modern days, large portion of glasses in Korea are imports from the western society. Designs that are common were either square or oval shaped glass. Since the liberation in 1950, sharp and distinctive “cats-eye” glasses were in fashion. In the 60s, square glasses as well as plastic based materials became popular. Design of glasses in Korea since the 60s up to the 80s can be identified as era of imitation. The 80s style returned to smaller and retro styled circular glasses, resulting a high market demand for rimless oval shaped glasses. As coloured lens became available, overall trend of glasses colours began to flourish in vivid colours. The trend between the late 90s to early 2000s was return of oversized glasses, resulting in goggle shaped designs. Mid-21st century trend was big lenses with flashy horn-rimmed glasses. Different designs at this time were used to soften the impression of people. The design of today in 2016 is the return of retro styled big lenses with classic metal based rims. The cycle of eye glasses design is circulating fast. Eye glasses were made to adjust eyesight, but like all other products, market of glasses does not solely exist for functionality. Wearing glasses can change impression of a person, and customers who are intrigued are using it to express their taste and uniqueness. Glasses in the past have been the symbol of power, intellectual, wealth, and progressive imagery. However, it is now used as a fashion item expressing countless unique styles that the customers desire. Psychological satisfaction in expressing one’s colour through glasses has become a new trend, and it has placed glasses as an essential fashion item today. Korean eyewear industry did not develop by its own. Earlier designs have been heavily influenced by Western society, and Japanese influence on later designs. While it is correct to say that ‘Korean eyewear design’ does not have the uniqueness to be called independent of its own, the foreign influence can at times result to a new independent cultural it

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